Miru8691 | dinner

Fusion. Sometimes I hate that word. It often incorrectly entitles restaurants to serve nachos, fish of the day, pizza, sashimi and lentil soup on the same menu. I was nervous, therefore, to give the restaurant "M...random numbers" (change your name!) a try, but since my stalwart sushi favorite CRAZYFISH was closed on Friday night--God knows why--the friends and I had no choice but to wander somewhere else at least mildly sushi-related in walking distance. Miru, you won.

I've fallen on the random belief that, at a fusion restaurant, the fusion category listed first in the menu--or first among the chef's specials--is the actual strength of the restaurant's repertoire, and all other items offered within somehow stupidly flopped their way into the kitchen based on a series of shoddy judgments on the part of the bottom-line-loving owners and their spineless kitchen staff. I don't know if it's true. But since Miru listed sushi first (and, might I remind, since I was in the mood for uncooked food), I went for the sushi.

I liked what I ate. But much like their website, Miru the restaurant tries a little too hard. There's a little too much flair, a little too much variety (yeah, it can happen), and just a little too much going on in general. Their menu, like a book, offers up a series of chapter-like food categories, each item numbered therein. And though the names for the meals are all witty ("America's Most Wanted" is a spicy roll; "Victoria's Secret" has smelt egg within--hardyhar), I find myself skeptical concerning the universal quality of a restaurant's menu options when there are over sixty meal choices. I think little Miru, which is tucked into a not-very desirable corner of an otherwise randomly located mini strip mall a block west of Olympic and Doheny, would do well to scale back and pick on some food her own size.

My friend BiCoastal (she hails from Atlanta but lives in Berkeley) had the 8-piece sashimi plate, which she rated as rather amazing; and my other friend Hotpocket (she's short and has an enviable rack...it's just a fact) tried something with steak on it that looked way too daunting. To say the least of the place, at least their portions fit their prices (spent a little more than I'd expect to spend, given the location). I myself enjoyed #18 under the Fushion House section of the menu, a lightly tempura-fied spicy tuna roll called "Palm." I miss the irony in that title, but I loved the roll. And I especially liked the "samples" (read: free appetizers!) our waiter brought around while we waited for our food. And why not? Mexican restaurants give you chips; Italian restaurants give you bread; McDonald's gives you germs...so shouldn't fusion restaurants serve you a little bit of their staple specialty at the door? Tonight was a smidgen of a delicately fried vegetable egg roll, a small veggie/faux crab rice roll topped with dried beets or something purple (deeeeeeelicious!) in a light, sort of wine-tasting sauce, and thirdly, some silk tofu. Nice touch, Miru. If Crazyfish is ever closed again (for shame!), I very well might come back. Mostly because you're right across the street.

food to swoon over: my #18 was a #1, but I think the sashimi plate (actual #1, under "Fresh Sushi" in the menu) wins, if I choose to believe BiCoastal's yum's and mmm-hmm's.

drink to think about: WATER. This place is a little spensy for folks on a budge (so poor, I can't afford the "T"). But I'd love to try their soju cocktails another night.

in five: 4/5 for a random neighborhood quick find, but rates lower, I'd say a 3, in terms of an overall package (ambiance docks half a point; so does their crazytown fusion menu and their slippery, "fancy" chopsticks)

eat it, suckafish: http://www.miru8691.com/